Monthly Archives: April 2010

Catch Up

So I think I need to catch up on what has been going on as I feel I am not keeping you all suitably informed.  After arriving in Adelaide I dropped off the van and had already booked the hostel for the night.  I actually ended up spending 3 nights in this hostel, ringing the van people everyday to see if they had anything to take back but with no luck.  3 failed days and although I spent more time exploring Adelaide I felt as if I was kicking my heels and wasting the remaining time I had in Australia.  The first night back in Adelaide was fun as there was a travel auction in the hostel.  We all got drunk on free goon and I got talking to a girl from Oxford, a lady from Sweden stuck in Australia because of the Volcano eruption and an American guy.   The hours flew by and people crept off to bed and the short ginger american guy decided to hit on me.  After a bit of harmless flirtation I managed to get away but continued to be hounded by him for the next couple of days. He was sweet but I honestly don’t think I could go out with a man shorter than me!

There was a big display on the hostel about a new hostel opened in Port Elliott. I was billed as a boutique style hostel and a city getaway located 2 hours from Adelaide on the Fleurieu Peninsula. They had a deal on with transport, bed and breakfast so I signed up and on Thursday I was off to Port Elliott for 2 nights.  The hostel was lovely and so was the town , fabulous beaches and coastal walks, lovely little shops, a famous bakery and a fine second hand book shop.  I whiled away my time walking along the coast stopping at cafes and enjoying the sun. The only downside was the mozzies, I got bitten about 30 times and the need to scratch only got worse when I was trying to sleep.   I spent the evenings drinking wine with the girl from Oxford who had also decided to try the new hostel, and on the second night a couple from Corbridge, Northumberland.  There was also a health dose of Richard Hammond, James May and Jeremy Clarkson discussing the merits of a 5 million pound Bugatti thrown into the mix.

Saturday saw me returning to Adelaide just in time for an Afro-Cuban drumming lesson hosted by the lovely Phil. I had seen this advertised before I left and practically ran from the bus to get back in time. We all had a laugh and by the end we even managed to all stay in the same rhythm.  After the excitement of the morning I went to the market to pick up something for dinner and felt a compulsion to test out the drum beat of everything in sight, I don’t think the stallholders were too impressed. Safely back at the hostel, or so I thought, I got collared by the american dude that was still at the hostel.  Thankfully after a while I managed to make my excuses of going to bed in order to get up early for the flight back to Sydney (not exactly a lie, it was early by backpacking standards 6am!).

I left the hostel in the morning with a girl called Jenni from Glasgow, we were both catching the same flight to Sydney but then she was heading into the riots and chaos of Bangkok and I was going to watch the Anzac Day Parades and then go back to the burbs to stay with family for a couple more nights before the flight to Nerw Zealand.  On a serious note I am really pleased I am not in Thailand now, I would be scared being there now with other people let alone by myself.

The Grampians

Catching the bus outside Flinders Station I was leaving Melbourne to go to Braybrook to pick up the van to Adelaide.  Having driven the Ocean Rd the last time I drove between the 2 cities I wanted to go inland and see the Grampian Ranges.  I thought that I would stay the first night at Halls Gap right in the middle of them.  This time I was driving a Nomad 3 berth camper which  was definately a nicer size for parking spaces.  I stopped in Balarat for groceries and then carried on through Ararat and arrived in Halls Gap.  It was still only mid afternoon so I had a bit of time to explore before finding a camp site.  I drove through Halls Gap and Found the visitor centre adn Brambuk cultural centre which just happens to be my new dream home.  Brambuk is the Aboriginal word for Cockatoo and the design of the building is a representation of a cockatoo in flight with outstretched wings. It is the totem for this area.  Within the building there are 5 circular areas interlaced and this represents the 5 aboriginal communities that came together for the project.  It is a no holes barred account of what happended to aborignal communities when the white fella took over their land, killing and displacing thousands of native people.  I took pictures of the outside and only managed to get one inside before getting told off so I will try and find some on the net.  Inside the main area was a massive stone circular chimney stack like a big tree going through the centre of the building then a circular ramp up to the top level with another open fire and views outside to the wetlands.  There was a cinema area and meeting rooms off the main room and I was picturing it all as my home.  If I could build a house I would like it to be a similar design to this.  Can you tell I really liked the building?

Anyway, leaving there I walked around the wetlands for a while and then went to silverband falls where I parked the van and had a walk to the falls.  They area pretty but there hadn’t been much rain so they weren’t at their best.  Another stop at Lake Bellfield which was a resevoir and I walked across the damn.  After a few photographs I went back to Halls Gap and found a camping spot among the kangaroos (about 50 at least) and settles in for the night with dinner and cans of Jack Daniels and Coke.

Sunday morning and I set off on the C222 to Horesham.  This passed the Balconies and Mackenzie falls.   The walk up  to the Balconies was really nice first thing in the morning and I managed to get there when there was only 1 other person there.  I stayed a while and listened to the stillness and calm and only the sound of the birds and the mating calls of the Koalas below.  On the way back to the van I was pleased I had gone up early because there were scores of people going up and another bus load arriving as I pulled out of the car park. I walked down to Mackenzie falls and discovered that this was a bit too strenuous for first thing in the morning before breakfast.  Back up the steps and in the van I needed to drive and I wanted to get to Murray Bridge about 500km.  This part of the journey was pretty mundane and the only point of interest was that the road followed the same route as the Indian Pacific cross country train from Perth to Sydney.  I want to do this train journey or the Ghan which goes from Adeliade to Darwin via Alice Springs, unfortunately too much money for a backapcker but when I eventually find that rich man hopefully I will get to do it.

Melbourne

I have had a few days in Melbourne now and I have been bed hoping and not in the fun sense.  I wanted to stay in Melbourne Central YHA but they only had a bed for one night not a few so I booked one night and walked to Melbourne Metro YHA to see if they had anything.  To cut a long story short I stayed 1 night in Central, 1 night in Metro and then back to Central for another 3 nights.  This place is nice and has a nice bar on the ground floor that does cheap beer and cheap pizzas for hostel residents.

So far I have been utilizing the free city circle tram getting to Flagstaff park, Federation Square, Swanston shopping street and walking up to the Queen Victoria Market.  I have officially fallen in love with this place.  It is apparently the largest covered market in the southern hemisphere and gets better the more you explore it.  I started at the city end on Victoria Rd and went through the clothes, bags, shoes and souvenirs without much trouble then headed into the fruit and veg and nuts, seed and pulses.  I had a little more of a job getting through here even so I was quite proud of myself only coming out with fresh figs and some rather delicious mascatel grapes, incidentally the grape picking experience has given me a new found respect for the many different varieties.  From here the market progressed fo food courts and meat.  It was only 10.30 do the cooked food display didn’t have too strong of an effect and I didn’t need any raw meat so I got through there stopping only to check out the prawns and seafood selection at the entrance to the delicatessen area.  This was better then a sweet shop bread, cooked and cured meats, dips, cheeses and selections of the finest foods from around the world.  The smells were fantastic.  I walked round and decided on humous, spicy lentil dip, falafel and some stuffed olives for later on and for lunch a freshly squeezed carrot, apple, pear and ginger juice drink and a ricotta borek.  It is like Borough market but bigger, more space and less expensive.  I could have spent hours there but it is open everyday except Wednesday so I still have time to go back and try some more wonderful food.  Saying that, Melbourne really is all about the food.  There are thousands of restuarants and eateries and you could go years without dining in the same place twice.  Australia is the home to some truely amazing natural ingredients and they celebrate it and make the most of it, something that England fails to do.

The shopping centres are pretty different.  There is a big smoke chimney in the main central mall that they have just build round and put a big glass prism around the chimney stack.  The shops are nearly all small and on what they call laneways inside the centres, it looks really nice.  I have explored a few galleries and the main central library which is really old and grand looking.  I walked around the Docklands area there they have these big sculptures all along the dock front by various artists.   One day I walked along the Southbank of the river past the Eureka skybeck and to the Victorian Arts Centre and then on to the Royal Botanic Gardens where I found a spot of grass to read and watch the world go by.  It is so nice having the time to be able to slow things down but still achieve everything you want to in a day.

I have booked a van to take to Adeliade tomorrow becuase they didn’t have anything back to Sydney.  I will have more luck getting one from there I hope.

Back on the road

This time I have got a van to Melbourne, older than the last one but slightly shorter even though this one sleeps 4.  It is basically a Ute with a caravan on the back but with a double bed over the driving area.  It has all the same things as the last one but is manual drive so gives me a bit more to do.

I wasn’t able to collect it till 3pm so I thought it would be ok to get to Canberra before stopping for the night.  It sis involve some driving in the dark but I was on the lookout for Kangaroos in the road.  I tried 4 campsites before finally getting one that had free space, it seems everybody goes camping and caravaning to Canberra on the weekends.  I settled in and finished my book, not exactly a thrilling Friday night, but I did have wine so all was good.

Saturday morning I got ready and went for a drive round the capital and up Capital Hill before going to Gold Creek a nice village type shopping area someone on the campsite recommended.  First I need to say something about Canberra’s set up.  When I was in Kuala Lumpur, Shukor took me to the government and parliamentary area.  He told me that the design was based around Canberra and it was wierd driving round it because it almost felt as if I had been there before.  Things are slightly different but the basic design is the same, right down to where the Pm’s house is situated in relation to Parliament House.

I arrived at Gold Creek village and had a look round.  There were lots of little boutique type shops in small squares with fountains  and statues in the centre.  I found a great tea shop that does mail order called Adore tea.  It has over 200 different varieties of tea and I found it difficult to pick one to try, I went for chilli in the end.  It was good.  They sell the tea in little 2 cup taster sachets as well as in bigger bags so I came out with tasters of Spiced, Blue mountain, Malaysian and Sticky toffee pudding teas. I can see me getting big quantities of tea shipped back to the UK at regular intervals.  After this it was a case of hitting the road again and clocking up the miles.  I stopped in Albury for groceries and spent the night in Wangaratta talking to the lady on the caravan site about my trip (she was asking me and seemed interested honestly).

On Sunday I drove the last leg down to Melbourne where I had decided to stay in Lynwood for the night so I only had a short drive for the 9am drop off.  This was the best day of the mini adventure.  Turning of the Hume highway to visit Glenrowan and the place of Ned Kelly’s last stand.  I took photographs of the giant Ned Kelly statue and then went on my way to Yea.  In Yea I stopped to wander round and stretch the legs and stumbled across a great coffee shop that was also a gallery and the tourist information.  I started looking at some postcard photographs of a sculpture garden one of the waiteresses told me it was in Marysville.  It meant going back on myself a little way to get to the road but I really wanted to see it.  After coffee and a generous helping of carrot cake I went to Marysville passing the Cathedral ranges.  The girl in the coffee shop had mentioned a fire in Marysville but it wasn’t until you got nearer that you could even comprehend the devastation that had happened here.  It was a year and a month since the fire and the entire village had gone up in flames along with the acres of woodland surrounding it.  When I found the sculpture park it was clear that this  along with everything else in the village was emerging from the ashes to be bigger and better than it had previously been.  I talked to the owner and creator of the sculptures and although you could see the sadness and exhaustion etched into his face you could also see and hear the hope and optimism that they all had for the future and it was clear that their sense of community had pulled them through that had happened.  They still had a long way to go but it was amazing which had been achieved over the past year, totally rebuilding schools, shops and homes.  The sculpture park was great and even though it decided to absolutely chuck it down, I was pleased that I has found Marysville and was able to support the cause.  From here that way out was through the Yarra Valley and the fun twisting, winding roads round the hill sides through the forests.  I realised I have made a habit of opening the windows to let the smell of the wet eucalyptus drift into the van.

Stopping at various galleries, wineries and glassblowers along the way I quickly understood that everybody felt inspired to create something here.  You could try your hand at anything from wine making to glassblowing and I am sure that if I lived here I would be signed up for every class there was going.  I would probably end up drinking the wine before it was fully matured and burning myself with the hot glass or metal but it would be fun having a go.  Arriving in Lynwood and the most expensive caravan park in Australia I set about cleaning the van ready for the drop off.  I went to bed with the thought of the day.  If I chose to only drink wine from the places I have been to I would have gathered quite an extensive list now.  A list that can only be extended further in a few weeks in New Zealand and America.

A Great Night

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This might seem a little strange and not really about my adventures but it does have a point so hang in there.  As most of you that know me know that I am totally obsessed with music in every form and you may or may not be aware that I chart the years with music. Not that I am a geek about it. I couldn’t go through and tell you what they all were but for example, my summers usually have a dominant song, something that I have heard a lot of, something that reminds me of a particularly special time, or a new band/singer that I have discovered and really like.  I also listen to the music in the background on films and wonder why they have picked a particular song, incidentally I always wanted to have their job and still do. This trip has had many different songs attached to in by now but after seeing Newton Faulkner the other night and really getting into one of his songs over the past few weeks I realised that it says so much about what I am doing.  I know it sounds stupid to people that don’t understand, but when you truly listen to the lyrics it gives a different dimension to the song.

‘If I had one chance to freeze time, to stand still and soak in everything, I choose right now

If I had one night where sunshine could break through and show you everything, I’d choose right now’

When I am looking out from the top of the Buddha on Lantau Island, walking round the markets in Bangkok, watching the sunset on the beach in Langkawi or Prevelly or Port Fairy, or just staring out at the landscape over the Blue Mountains these lyrics are pertinent and

Anyway enough of the education all I wanted to say was that the theme song from the trip is this one and I am trying to add the Youtube video so you can listen.

Walking in the Blue Mountains

We started Good Friday by getting up early and going off to the Blue Mountains.  We went up to the furthest point Govette’s Leap.  This was my first real view of the Blue Mountains as you can’t really see much from the road.  It was truly spectacular, you can’t really appreciate the scale of it until see it all.  Thousands of acres of red rock and tall trees set in massive valleys between the mountains and minuscule trails and tracks in and out of it.  We went to two viewing areas at Govette’s Leap and then had a picnic lunch.  From there we stopped at another lookout point before parking the car at Echo Point and the Three Sisters.  There were loads of people here and a lot of people walking the trails. We started at the viewing platform at Echo Point and then walked to the viewing area on the first of the three sisters before heading down the Giant Staircase. That was pretty scary in places and involved over 900 steps, some of which were more like ladder rungs than steps, down to the base of the iconic landmark.  I was really pleased we were walking down these and not up. That didn’t stop every bodies legs turning to jelly on the way down.

The path went up and down and back up again and I was wondering exactly why I had agreed to do this.  We walked the Federal pass round to the Katoomba railway.  We walked past waterfalls, viewing spots and fallen trees before arriving at the steepest railway in the world. It travels up at a 52 degree angle in places and follows a natural tunnel between the cliff faces.  Katherine decided to scream the whole way up because she was scared of falling out and I was sat there in amazement and listening to the Indiana Jones theme that they played on the way up.

Once we were back at the top we got ice creams and watched the cable car going up and down for a while before taking the Cliff Top Walk back to Echo Point and the Three Sisters viewing point.  The Three Sisters have huge significance with the Aboriginal people and are three of the original seven. There was an Aborigine at Echo Point playing the didgeridoo and selling boomerangs to the tourists .  I got a couple of really good photographs of him and then it was back to the car and everybody was pretty exhausted and starting to seize up.  Saturday was a rest day and with aching muscles we decided to go and watch Clash of the Titans at the cinema.  It was really good but didn’t have the same 3D appeal that Avatar had.

Sunday started with an Easter egg hunt for the kids and I got an Easter Bunny and then another trip to the Blue Mountains.  This time the destination was Wentworth Falls.  We went down the Valley of the Waters past a lot of waterfalls following the Wentworth falls pass on the explores route, headed around the cliff side to the actual Wentworth falls before ascending back to the top and the car.  I enjoyed this walk more than Friday’s because there was a lot more to see and the falls were definitely worth the walk, although, plenty of other people decided they weren’t when they saw the steps down to it.  It took a while to get back to the top but when we did we sat with a picnic in the park before journeying back to the house and my favourite, Thai green prawn curry.

Wicked Whale Beach

Tuesday was the day we went to Wicked.  I went for a scout round the shops and for coffee while CArol went to a school presentation then we went into the city.  Ozmopolitan cocktails in hand we took are seats for the show to start.  It was great.  The tale of the wicked witch of the west before the story of Dorothy starts.  Another one of the shows that I wanted to see ticked off the list. The next day I spent planning various activities, I bought tickets for Newton Faulkner next Wednesday night at the Enmore because I didn’t get picked to work at the festival over the Easter weekend.  I also booked another camper to take to Melbourne next Friday and sorted the photographs that I wanted to put on the blog posts.I rang to see how much it would cost to change my flight to New Zealand and it is more than I can afford to pay so I am sticking to the 2 weeks there and hope that is enough time to get a feel for the place.  I can’t believe my time is going so quickly, now past the half way point with still so much I want to see and do. Settling back into work is certainly going to be very difficult after this.

On Thursday we went exploring Pittwater and enjoyed a walk up to Barrenjoey lighthouse.  It is beautiful up there and about 1 hour from the city by car.  We went through Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park and along McCarrs Creek to Pittwater.  The road is winding and has steep hill sides down to the water and each house had a boats mooring in the water and steps down to them.  This place reminded me of being in Canada around Vancouver Island and Saltspring, a place I will be seeing again in a matter of weeks.  From Pittwater we visited Whale beach and one side of the Palm beach before reaching the end of the road.  We parked the car and walked up to the Barrenjoey Lighthouse on the headland.  The views were spectacular and well worth the climb, I am just upset that it wasn’t whale season because this would be a great spot to try and see them from.  We found an alternative route back down to the car and had ice creams at the boathouse whilst watching the sea planes take off for Sydney.  Another good day and more photo’s to add to the growing collection.